Sunday, June 26, 2011

All I can say is that I was so happy to catch up on some reading, 2 books at once, a magazine, music practice and a well deserved pedicure.  Sand, sand, dirt, thongs, walks over gorges, rocks, mountainous ranges poor feet really needed some indulgence before heading off for the next few months of trekking.

Our happy campers were keen to introduce us to the art of darts, a range of card games that I had trouble with, as I'd never played and thought diplomatically to leave those interests to Daniel.  In the meantime, my cold got worse with the temperature rising the loss of voice and the temperature during the days in the 30's with no dip in the pool and the only strategy was to stay away from others so as not to send on the virus.  
 
Instead, more reading, television, television, television. Was I sick or was I sick of television?
We did spend one more evening with another 2 couples from the camp where we went into Cullen Bay for dinner at Seafood on Cullen.  I decided to see if there was anything written up about it on the web.  Some good reports some not so good.  Doesn't matter a night out in this part of their beautiful city was worth seeing.  We arrived with the 2 couples already seated, with a perfect table on the outside to see the gorgeous sunset on the sea.  The colours ranged from soft gold, to a mix of of almost purple once the sun met the deep blue.

The food was smorgasbord, sensationally fresh with oysters, prawns, crab, followed by a fantastic mix of Asian hot dishes including pork, lamb, beef, rice, noodles, fresh salads.....the list just goes on.  What more could we say.  Food was great, the company so much appreciated
having been on the road most of 24/7 just the 2 of us for some time. In fact blessed to be with others for some exchange of others' verbal communication.

Darwin, Northern Territory.

It has to be said that by the time we arrived in Darwin we were physically and mentally exhausted.  Our  destination was booked six months in advance, so it was part
of the time frame that we had to get here by June in the North.  Originally it was planned that we would have spent some time with our daughter but alas she was moved onto another position.

The first few days were pretty windy with temperatures during the days reaching around 26 to about 28 with the evenings settling around 12 to 14 degrees.  We were informed that it had been the coldest June for about 40 years.  Anyway since we were here and the pool was so inviting and the days were still pretty warm I promised myself to enjoy a dip each day whilst here.

We found our way back into Litchfield Park, which we had visited the year before in January.  It's a beautiful National Park with so many water holes to enjoy let alone the views to behold of rock face escarpments, ridges, lounging lizards as they make their way from water pools.  The waters are unbelievably clear with the only music as they race over the rocks and stones that layer for kilometres beneath.

A visit to the Darwin River Dam is worth a look.  The sheer enormity of the volume of water that is held is spectacular.  With recent rainfalls, some flooding the damn was at its peak.  A great walk along the dam's wall with a drive back to camp.

We got the opportunity of enjoying some camp fun with Happy Hour meeting lots of lovely people on the nighs we did attend. As we had stayed away from Darwin Central during the stay we didn't get as much time to visit the city itself, the excuse being that we'd done it before.  Anyway I really did want to head out to the Mindil Beach Markets, told to go on the Thursday
because it was probably that much better. However, we think we arrived a tad too late at 5.30pm and circling for a while before finding a carpark, thinking that all the tourists in Darwin had the same thing in mind.  Needless to say that it was a little difficult to get onto the beach to watch the sunset with about another 1000 people, if not more, that headed straight
back to the market pavillion once the sunset.


Unfortunately, by this stage I knew that I think I was about to come down with some sort of flu virus.  Through the first week I'd attended to laundry, cleaning the van, sorting stuff.....as women do.....the microwave gave up...even though we'd probably only used it once and that was to soften the butter from the fridge.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Northern Territory.


By WA hope to see you again
 To all the friends we'd made in our 'short' travel through this (hidden) beautiful state, let this be a warning to you....."We'll be back"
Your state has given us so much fun, laughter, frivolity (is that still allowed??? Ha ha!), so many friendly faces, places to stay with beautiful sunsets, breathtaking sunrises, mangroves,lagoons, how shall I forget the shells?? that I transported to Melbourne in one bag to leave at my future daughter in laws, the rest under our bed, thank goodness they still yet (!) don't smell, fishing for Daniel, plenty of fish for sumptuous dinners, falling stars across skies that lit up with so many stars, amazing sights of sealife, wildlife, flora and a lot that had not yet been seen to say the least.



A refreshing swim in the thermal pools at Katherine
 We crossed the border early in the morning thinking that we may have to stop for a quarantine check.  Not to worry it's only when entering WA.  Photo taken and the road ahead onto Timber Creek for the stopover for the night.  We were told about Horseshoe campground but arriving there early in the afternoon it was obviously thought of as a good choice but it was full which meant that we decided to head further on a little more to Sullivan campground just after Victoria River.  Again here it looked as if we would probably be the last occupants to stop but no there were at least another 4 vans that managed to squeeze in for the night.  An early night for us, I think, as we were beginning to get itchy feet knowing that we wanted to be in Darwin perhaps a day or so sooner than originally planned.


This is lovely
 We'd reached Katherine next morning by about 11.0am, a few phone calls that we needed to make to friends that had called, left messages but couldn't reply to as coverage was poor.  Shopping done, petrol tanked we headed off to just the outside of town for some lunch before making our way down to the town's thermal pool.  Here we relaxed for about an hour just enjoying the warm temperature of the water, some friendly conversation with other visitors, before taking a walk along the footbridge which literally took us to an amazing sight of where the water comes from out underneath the hill.  The clarity and cleanliness of the water was beautiful... We wish we could have taken a swim here.


Nice and deep!
 Our next stop was going to be at the dam just before Pine Creek, but realising that it was late afternoon again with the grounds having room for 8 units we decided to try the Pussy Cat Flats Turf Club instead. Bingo! what a great spot. For the night it was only $8.50 per person, power and showers why not stay.  This of course was Pine Creeks horse racing track.  The bar opened at 4.00pm whereupon some of the locals came by to enjoy a drop or two.  We decided that we were too tired and withdrew early but upon rising early next morning decided that another full day on the road we weren't really ready for again.  That afternoon we did go to the bar and join a couple of ladies who were travelling together but each had their own campervans.  We had a great chat with them before heading off to take care of dinner.
I think we will perhaps stay here one night on our return from Jabiru, Kakadu as we head back south towards Katherine after visiting Darwin.



Crystal clear thermal spring pool
 A couple more nights on the road before making our destination to Darwin.  Another free stopover brought another couple of nights by the fire.  The last couple of nights we had noticed had been much cooler seeing Daniel wear his polar fleece and ugg boots and me donning a track suit top probably for the first time in a long time.  We'd met with some people who were travelling up from South Australia on their way to Darwin having come up through Alice Springs where not only had the weather been around the 12 degree mark during the day but they had also been at the mercy of a mouse plague running a muck in their campervan. Eventually ridding themselves of the vermin having left Alice.

A bright early start next morning with smiles beaming as we made our way up the Stuart Highway with final destination after 5 months on the road to Darwin!



Time for a coffee break at Pussy Cat Flats

It sure is getting better.....3 months now

Bridge Creek Rest Area ..our last stop before Darwin







Lake Argyle, Western Australia.


I called them Warnum (white) and Tunnel (black)
 Warnum Road House, just past Tunnel Creek Community,  was a very interesting stop on our way (from Bungle Bungles)before heading on further North onto to Kununurra.  We stopped here only for one night, it really was used as a stopover for one night by most caravaners on their way to somewhere.

Approaching Kununurra over the River Ord


Truckies stopped here to fill up, shower if they needed to freshen up between their distant journeys, a stopover for backpackers wanting to earn money in the Restaruant, selling from behind the counter for takeaways to the weary traveller, providing clean amenities for the stopover nighters, maintaing the grounds.  This was an eclectic mix of culture to be seen first hand.  To our amazement before we'd left for the Bungles trip we noted the number of stray dogs at the roadhouse.  We were very amicably greeted by at least half a dozen although I might add that some didn't look too be in too good shape.  However, van parked we'd acquired a couple of visitors and having kept provisions low purposely before we hit a larger town to do more appropriate shopping I really didn't have much to offer the couple of dogs that decided that our van would be all right.  I couldn't bear to think that they looked hungry so cooked up some eggs and toast that they were more than happy to receive.  Our place was guarded for the day!


Sheer force,volume and the noise of water rushing

Needless to say that when we returned they were still parked under our van. 
That night we had for dinner some rice with fish and salad.  Knowing that I didn't have anything else for the 2 outside I had just enough salad to keep me happy.  My rice and fish was put together and given to the boys.  On the day of departure handing in the key, I turned  back to the lass behind the counter I asked inquisitively about all the dogs at the roadhouse.  She informed me that the local community had abandoned them at the time of the floods in March at the roadhouse and had not returned to collect them.  Some had been runover by passing traffic, some had been destroyed, some ran away, some had starved. No one cared for them.  As we left I felt so greatful that we'd shared something with them but it was very sad to leave the two behind.

Look closely enough in the van in front's rear window....that's us!

Once over the tears, we stopped mid morning at a freecamp for a coffee meeting with some happy campers who were more than delighted in stepping out of their vans to join us for some new company and an exchange of worthy information on our further journey north once entering
the Northern Territory.  With caffeine in the bloodstream, alertness levels perked we set off for the Junction to Kununurra and Wyndham.  Once at the junction we stopped, deciding that we were tired to head to Wyndham another 100ks (which meant that we missed the 5 rivers running into one.....what we'll have to do again then!)so we turned right into Victoria Hwy to Kununurra. 



View of Lake Argyle spillway into the Ord River

Arriving around 2 in the afternoon on a Sunday with not much open we did some shopping before deciding that we would go another 70ks further to make our stopover for the next 2 nights at Lake Arglye.  Well are we so glad we did.  This was an oasis in the middle of nowhere.  Lake Arglye, Australia's second artificial lake, man-made and dammed in the early 70's.  We knew that it was only a 2 night stopover but this was an amazing place of some great history, especially of the Durack family, the sheep farming, the damming of the Lake.  We wasted no time on exploring with our bikes the dam, before my gears packed up leaving me to walk all the way back up the hill we'd ridden down. Red can be a nice colour when I wear it but scarlett looks like I'm about to suffer a stroke NOW! not a pretty sight.  Let's just say that Daniel, did make it back all the way up the hill back to the park on the bike......show off!


Time to rest after a nice wash for the van

I'd have to say it was probably the first time that we were able to was the car and van since Albany! only because there was the availability of water.  We wasted no time in attending to both.  Washing the van, the car both inside and out.  How great to see how clean and white it looked after only being red for the last 3 months.  Righto! chores done, we're heading for THE POOL....let me tell you that this has to be the most photographed pool in Australia!  It's called the "Infinity Pool" set right upon the edge of the escarpment with the view flowing over the edge into Lake Argyle (only an aperition).  A vision to be treasured, but not only that, the size of Lake Argyle was unbelievable.  It is said to be 9 times bigger than Sydney Harbour.

There's always work to be done...even when on holiday


It can only be said that any visitor here, whatever the weather (not that it really gets that cold here) gets into this pool at some stage of their stay and no wonder! We really used this pool, read, chatted with the other swimmers about their travels, where they were heading, some couples from Australia touring for shorter periods, some from Overseas and some with small families deciding to do the big trip taking kids out of school for 12 months. 

We were now almost halfway through our trip according to our time frame and only about 37 kilometres from the Western Australian/ Northern Territory border.  We would be in Darwin soon............

Our newest travelling member....welcome to Ca "RA" mel!
Lake Argyle to our left

Ord River to our right

Oh! great my gears just packed up on the way down!

With beautiful picnic area at the bottom of the Dam

The Ord River running to the North

Oh look!... a water nymph!

I told you I'd make it up that goddam hill!

Time for a swim

Deckchairs are nice!

I know I really like mine

Look at the view behind us!

Camper:"would you like your photo taken together?"

"I'll do a close up for you!" ....now we know how to use the camera..Doomph!

Some local flora on our trip to The Durack Homestead

The Infinity Pool

This is really an awesome sight

Oh Marysia, is that my foot? Damn it...

Bye and thank you for this Gem in this another Gem!







Monday, June 20, 2011

The Kimberleys, Part 2

Yes.......we've done the 4WD to Windjana Gorge
Before leaving for Halls Creek we had one more gorge to visit.  Rather than take the boat trip we walked the rich sand bank of the Geikie Gorge.  The colours of the canyon amazing as it cradled the water in between banks.  The fauna of gay galahs, bush cockatoos, babbling white cockatoos flying overhead never left us alone.  It was pretty hot but the canopy lining the bank provided some cool relief as we walked in their shade.  At one time, as we were in conversation with some people we met in Darwin who'd travelled the Gorge as much as 10 years earlier, it was packed with people swimming in the gorge along side freshwater crocodiles. Today because it's Heritage listed you're no longer permitted to.  Oh what a shame to have missed such an experience in this beautiful wilderness.
Hiking along the Geikie Gorge
  
Departure day came, packing and on the road in half an hour...we're getting better.  Washing done, dried, ironed (on the bed of course)put away time spent on the road was full of breathtaking scenic moments.  Soaring ranges, covered in lush green shrubs, small trees growing out of cracks in mountain tops everywhere and this according to everyone was a rarity but due to the recent heavy rains and flooding the landscape was just abundant with wildlife, bursts of green as far as the eye could see.

Arriving at Halls Creek around midday we decided to stop to buy a few necessities.  I went to the supermarket to buy just a small loaf of bread and other bits.  Daniel spotted the local bottle shop, to his surprise it was open so best thing to do was after spending almost a week with nothing to investigate what was available and allowable to purchase in this neck of the woods.  On return to the car with our bag of goodies we inspected each of our purchases.  Mine were just the staples, Daniel's only purchase could be a slab of 30 beer at 2.7 alcohol volume and that was it, nothing else was permitted other than Cider.  The only two things you could purchase here at Halls Creek.  Happy to have that as an ale we decided that the next stop would be Bungle Bungles.
It was a pretty hot afternoon for a pretty long walk.

Having been on the road for about 5 hours Daniel thought that it was perhaps time to start looking for a stopover for the evening becuase we weren't going to get to the Bungle Bungles that night.  We stopped by a wayside just before the Bridge over the Ord River.  The night was cool, Daniel had positioned the van just by an open fire place, collected wood, walked around, spotted the free grazing cattle in the midst of our company, one could almost say in the middle of nowhere we started the evening's fire celebrating with a very light ale.

A beautiful panorama at Geikie Gorge
Next morning the plan was to head on further north to Warnum Road House, Turkey Creek leave the van there for the night, turn round come back another 50ks to do the Bungle Bungles, which we did.  On arriving at the entrance to Bungle Bungles we'd seen that a new caravan park had recently been opened.  Had we known that we wouldn't have driven 50 ks up the road, to drive another 50 ks back!  Hey! what does it matter, we're on holiday.....

Anyway from the entrance information point to the Visitors Information Centre at Bungle Bungles was only 50 ks.  That's not too bad, so we thought! However, 2 hours later on nothing but a 4wheel drive track, with so many water crossings, we couldn't believe that we'd finally arrived.....at only the Visitor's Information Centre and to see from the information panel that they were just about to close for lunch only to reopen at 1.00pm. 
Time to let down the tyre to do this 4 wheel drive

Needless to say that we raced up to the centre to stop the poor woman from closing for her lunch break only to see that behind us there were at least another dozen or so people rocking up for the same thing....oh well lunch would have to wait but she was absolutley fantastic about that stepping up to the challenge giving everyone here utmost attention, now that's what you call dedication.

Information in hand, half the day gone we had to make quick tracks, to take in as much as we could.  Due to the fact that we'd left our sleeping gear behind when visiting Windjana Gorge we'd also both come down with sore throats and had since decided that we wouldn't stay under tent for the night at Bungle Bungles.  We only had enough time for a quick lunch, before walking out to Echidna Chasm, returning to set back to Warnum Road house which again was going to take another 2 hours return drive through even rougher water crossings than the entrance had been.  In hindsight we said that we would have to return here to spend at least 3 days to give it's beauty the justice it deserved.  In fact, a must do would have to be a scenic flight over this total area to appreciate it's real beauty.

Run for cover from the dust as Helicopter lands!
Okay one of the first water crossings to Bungle Bungles

Yes we're crossing this in the car

Waiting for us to get to the other side

A quick bit of lunch before heading for the Chasm walk

The entrance is all rock and only rock all the way

This is getting quite warm here, but the palms were lovely
Thank goodness that we're inside and it's so coooool

I am so glad it's coool!
Still have some walking to do, Have I got my stick?

I am really very small in this huge crevice

I think we deserve a Beer now!

Just one view of the Bungles

Spotting a Dingo on the way back

And more water crossings on the return trip